Tuesday, July 27, 2010

The Rainy Season

I've got lots to say so prepare for a few installments.

Part One

There's a run in the sky above the Lakes District, not unlike the one fraying a hole in my stockings, and it's been leaking water for days. I don't think the English should be allowed to declare a season summer just because the rest of us do.

The leakiest day came when Jayne, my restaurant manager, and I decided to take on The Old Man of Coniston, a sky-high Fell (you get yelled at if you say hill) that you can see from the dining room window, and one I've lost many moments contemplating (fell gazing is an acceptable waste of time, whereas leaning against walls is largely frowned upon). Locals refer to it as Coniston Old Man and it's the highest in the Furness Fells - and, after some quick Googling, the 12th most prominent mountain in England.

Jayne drove us there in her yellow convertible, whipping about the skinny roads like we were chasing the lost sun. If you live in the Lakes District, it is your right as a citizen to own a convertible, without one you are like a Maddy with no book.

I had new waterproof walking shoes and was tied up tight in my pink and grey raincoat (the boys say this raincoat is a deterrent to possible liftgivers when we trek home up the hill from gym as it makes me look like a person who wants to walk). Honey and jam sandwiches neatly wrapped up next to my banana sat at the bottom of my backpack, camera on top.

We parked in the village of Coniston, and began to climb a road so steep I was almost on my knees. Ten minutes later the road flattened and we took a turn leading up to a car park where the sensible walkers bring their cars. It began to rain - light stuff that wet my knees through my pants and made me wish I’d worn shorts.

C-O-M was some way off and water was already puddling on the wide track. A few other walkers were visible in the distance and the odd sheep grazed at ferns. After a steep row of steps the track seemed to vanish, and Jayne, long legs striding to the left, announced she could see the path further up. Some mad scrambling followed and we came across forgotten rail tracks tumbling over the cliff’s edge. We scurried back down the hill, warning a group of walkers off Jayne’s path and righted our course. C-O-M is covered in slate, and there’s a mine still in operation, so much of the walk was spent avoiding injury by sharp rock. Two hours in we came to a lake, a gorgeous pool of water hiding in the hill, and I could only wonder at finding it on a hot summer's day.

It took thirty minutes longer to climb to the top, where a pile of stones awaited us, and with each minute we lost another snippet of visibility. The ladder in the sky widened an inch more and the water almost washed Jayne and I down the mountain. I was wetter than if I'd had a bath. At the top is a tree of stones that grows taller with the arrival of each fell conqueror, and my stone, chosen near the start of our walk, went on top. I think the wind blew it right off again, but somewhere up there in the clouds is a piece of my walk.

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

The Art of Housekeeping

I haven't left the blogosphere, but I'd understand if you were beginning to wonder of my whereabouts. I've begun this many times, at the worst moments – and this is probably one I'll regret tomorrow. I've just finished my evening shift. It's past eleven and I'm tired yet wide-eyed, and my feet are too sore for sleep. I work two shifts a day and all my spare time is scheduled to the minute.

(Oh, dammit, it's already another day, so I fear this will seem disjointed and lacking in proper information but if I don't send this now, you'll never get it.)

When I left my brother gave me Dr Seuss' Oh, The Places You'll Go! that has the lines: All alone! Whether you like it or not, alone will be something you'll be quite a lot.

And that's been me quite frequently. When I first arrived in Bowness I felt like that last kid at the school gate waiting to be picked up. Then I met Matt and Simon, two 19-year-old kids from Zimbabwe, whom I want to bring home with me, and now I don't feel alone at all.

I'm living in a pipsqueak room in a tiny four-room cottage, steps away from Lindeth Fell Country House Hotel, my new place of employment. Down the drive and across the road is a field where three ponies are kept and beyond is Windermere Lake. Sometimes when I walk home from Bowness, the sun sits in that perfect spot, and my corner of the world lights up and I could stand face upturned to the warm air for ever.

Bowness-on-Windermere is 2km away and whenever I walk there I encounter tourists; there seem to be more hotels than homes, and every hour ferry boats shuttle the travellers around the lake.

I've been spending my days learning the art of housekeeping. Want your pillow plumped? I'm your girl. Towels draped perfectly over the bathroom rails? Just call my name. Bed turned down for the night? My name's in the dictionary definition. I'm less able with glassware but I don't want to peak too soon.

The other part of my day is spent practising dining room etiquette, which provides countless opportunities to do stupid things in front of strangers. I'll save these moments for another blog but I'm keeping a log in my brain. I've been asked out to afternoon tea by no less than three elderly Irish gentlemen so if you're keen for a date, Ireland's not a bad bet.

In all, I've had six days off – and I've been exploring, map in hand, flag of Maddy ready to mark new territory. I went walking in Beatrix Potter country, freely trespassing farmers' fields and getting acquainted with the local farm life. Signs ask if I can please shut the gate – gate catches here are remarkable specimens: clever, functional and aesthetically pleasing designs where Australian catches are rather boring in their sameness – which irks just a little because if nothing else Enid taught me the importance of closing a gate.

I've visited Ambleside and Grasmere, once home to William Wordsworth, and walked the Coffin route that connects them both. I've been to Keswick and Kendal and today I'll cross off Barrow on the maps I've pinned to my walls.

I have more, so much more, to say – so I'll try again soon. We have rainy days ahead, so I'll have time to update you on the adventures.

Love to you all. I hit the six-month mark a few days ago.

xxx